tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-62874201147805178252024-03-05T05:50:45.869-08:00Moors FAClimbing News And Articles From The North York MoorsFranco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.comBlogger27125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-29391523356260329812013-04-07T01:55:00.003-07:002013-04-07T01:58:37.592-07:00New Bouldering Venue In Fryupdale - With Video.<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="282" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/63481552" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/63481552">Finkelstones - Auroras Encore 7b+</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user3774974">Dave Warburton</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
This is a video made by Dave Warburton of his recent hit to do a few more of the unclimbed lines after the main development last week. Of particular note are the ascents on the 'warren' wall, with a brilliant 6b+ called Thumpa and Bambino - some low font 7 thumb fun. Dave's also managed the roof to the right of a font 7a+ that we were trying last week - about font 7b+ and now called 'Aurora's Encore'.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Prow</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A nice font 6b+</td></tr>
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The new area surrounds a large tabletop hill, with Danby Crag to the north and the new venues of 'The Fairy Cross Boulders', 'Freyr's Nab' and 'The Finkelstones' to the west, south and east respectively. The Fairy Cross group is totally new and hidden from the road by a couple of pine trees. The aspect is open though and the rock clean and crisp. Most of the stuff is font 5+- font 6b. No climbing pictures of this venue yet.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Freyr's Nab</td></tr>
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Freyr's itself was originally left unreported, but it turns out that it's on access land. This is a real stroke of luck for the North York Moors, as it is a brilliant little outcrop from an evening hit.
The boulders in the eastern woods are perhaps the largest find however and are now called 'The Finkelstones' (named after Finkel House below).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aurora's Encore - font 7b+</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prospect Wall - font 4+</td></tr>
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Some of these woods are on open access land as well, but are best approached from the Fairy Cross Boulders as that's the only way through the surrounding fields on a right of way. It's a bit of a walk (15-20 mins, via Freyr's or Fairy Cross - good warm up), but extremely pleasant and easy underfoot. There are about 15 blocks with grades from font 4- font 7b+ at the moment. A lot in the font 6s. <b></b>
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<b>Don't climb over any walls approaching any of the crags. <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2R-ILNbc7DEk-nDT8pZkvR4cptMgevuoq9PV_TQMLESCWTHFKx012YNUSFceilUG_qEy5kgOga3OqvHSxYvvcOwGP8iQ8smlhQFYRKCNvK-DpsQOQDBCjQTsnjbS_c6dojuvc04MxCsE/s1600/DSCF0332.JPG" imageanchor="1"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd177rUbtQ_QX85FmKbDFkv4oOSOgk2-govb3xu8QTQRcU4liHxujL-E3Vgeapgx5FXibG5uFKxb3siKuL7qMmgxwd7gwMyRxqTlLzwQMDhA8tetppX8EoK5EvMUX6PItQyb3FScU4TfM/s1600/DSCF0339.JPG" imageanchor="1"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM77ZGbXXtSgl5hFaR3-WNCTkrVb-zr2O5Y67BC7CojdbYwvaw-2QumMJ-72_fgIwBxMFzxDgEwoFc0PHNIomQ3lA06fgTWP7-LEqbGVqBxYT08wxt9S9vmZy7AuSB8o-e5hTtnHHxX-k/s1600/DSCF0321.JPG" imageanchor="1"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKnmJGvPd-Uf8lMLUGM3gHjr_VFZwh3gsAptANTtSyZfuDJ0WWAVw8j1eJ05BEtXTa01v79fjF8r6Mn5lFRQw8jMp7O873C6PtZUZbVzvJLPeC0532WiL4K3h_7j3-lN5JAd970hkatX4/s1600/DSCF0398.JPG" imageanchor="1"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCkdPmTJNs0mjjGvIknpmCFgr2elPF_37SVwVwoAvK3ai3W96v6ADKoj678gsJFTBmoiYVtWgpch8m-u_4fV8aRpa7E8SctTcQae8dLHKRRnQwet6u6IOjcDukZl-vaGmQd9HqqdJ4CCE/s1600/IMG_0286.JPG" imageanchor="1"></a></b>Franco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-7817158945193261592013-02-18T12:32:00.001-08:002013-02-18T12:32:11.442-08:00Danby Crag Collapse<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Owl Buttress has finally fallen down at Danby Crag.<br />
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A lot of people expected this to happen eventually, but the scale of the collapse is really rather impressive. Thank god no one was climbing portcullis as it happened. <br />
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It has certainly left some potential though...<br />
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<br />Franco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-37267694704533282712013-02-18T12:26:00.001-08:002013-02-18T12:26:47.145-08:00Mike Adams Climbs Moors font 8b+!<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/53810572" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <a href="http://vimeo.com/53810572">First Ascent of 'Mixed Emotions' at Kay Nest.</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user7044532">Mike Adams</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
Mike Adams has climbed the incredible arête project at Clemmitt's at a mighty font 8b+. Such difficulty has the Moors never known!Franco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-6863981664671643732012-08-29T06:18:00.001-07:002012-08-29T06:18:17.827-07:00Trad Summer ReportA lot has been happening this summer, with a fair few new routes and a lot of repeats from a large group of people.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thor's Axe (E3 5c)- Thorgill</td></tr>
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The young guns Mathew Ferrier and Sam Marks have been out repeating more round crag stuff and The Jungle Drum. They've also added a few Extremes and HVSs to the Smuggler's Terrace. Sam went on to free the aid line 'If you're not flying you're not trying' to give a new E4 6a <i>Death Arete-</i> surely a Newtondale Classic?<br />
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Further North me and Dave have been out at the usual haunts. a new E3 and E5 at Thorgill joined the group effort of Sam's Wall at Brownhill. This saw ascents from Phleppy and Ferrier. The crag of Brownhill is another venue on the now over-populated blakey ridge and this was then joined by a further boulder venue- Westerdale View quarry. Westerdale offers around ten boulder problems between font 6a and font 7c.<br />
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The Smugglers saw visits from the Castleton chaps and Steve Phelps, with the soon-to-be classic Psychosis (E5 6b) and an alternate start to aurora crack (HS) getting put up.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The left-hand side of Smugglers</td></tr>
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Developement spread east, with ingleby and Otterhill getting a few new additions, including the E6 6a <i>Weasel arete</i>. Ch Ching and the wainstones highballs all got repeated and new stuff has also appeared on cold moor north- a good highball circuit now exists around hasty bank.<br />
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Grand Master and Humbug even saw some ascents, after the latter was chipped and visiting climbers John Read and Andi Turner made a rare ascent of Magic In The Air (E5 6b- with side runners).<br />
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A lot's been a-happening and no doubt more will follow in the next two weeks!Franco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-68930021908183232172012-06-15T03:34:00.001-07:002012-06-15T05:59:03.120-07:00Early-Season Round Crag Action<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/44092128" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe>The summer season has already hit round crag- the impenetrable pinnacle offering up yet more classic (or not?) lines and new link-ups.<br />
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Heading the gap-filling is Dave 'Dooge' Warburton; on good form and perfecting his 'eye' for an unseen line. At the top of the list was a previously un-attempted link between the ultra-classic 'vampiric obsession' and the super-duper 'Honey Arete'. Whilst there's a fair section of new climbing- mainly revolving around smearing across a slab, the adjectival crux of the route is the top of Honey arete, up which the outing finishes- coming in from the right.<br />
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Dave also returned with young-guns Sam Marks and Mathew Ferrier, who went about repeating some of the classic mid-grade stuff at the crag- with quick headpoints repeats of 'The Heal of Approval'- a line soon to be celebrating its 1st birthday. Mathew then went on to climb 'Dither' second go.<br />
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Next up was Mr. Warburton again, who climbed an oft-eyed (by me at least) wall opposite Honey Arete. A tricky boulder of 'about font 6a+' leads to a pleasant romp to the top. When asked about his recent exploits Dooge described the development as "sketchy but rewarding". <br />
<br />
So another couple of fine routes up at Round Crag and I even hear designs for a girdle traverse...Franco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-38195048836772264872012-02-04T17:01:00.001-08:002012-02-04T17:18:21.159-08:00New Bouldering Wall In Middlesbrough<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNVe1OZCcRlMLQ0VHI8S2feWEmpdxZt-sCv5oNFM3KIiPcjNUf0O6UGma9DLEtljztBmrouw-mYa3AH1TrlRVbAORbOjH1lcSO9dWsxtNZbDb-AKHzh1vMapst4mIv3yvIDEWy3qg-y7M/s1600/boro.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 241px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNVe1OZCcRlMLQ0VHI8S2feWEmpdxZt-sCv5oNFM3KIiPcjNUf0O6UGma9DLEtljztBmrouw-mYa3AH1TrlRVbAORbOjH1lcSO9dWsxtNZbDb-AKHzh1vMapst4mIv3yvIDEWy3qg-y7M/s320/boro.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5705454712971424834" /></a><br />A new bouldering wall has opened up in Middlesbrough, which should hopefully provide a great training resource for North York Moors climbers and perhaps will even encourage some new climbers in the area. <br /><br />Details can be found here:<br />http://www.rockantics.co.uk/middlesbrough-once-open.htmlFranco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-48837732566229143062012-02-01T09:46:00.000-08:002012-02-01T09:48:39.670-08:00Mike Adams Hits The Coast<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/35994781?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&autoplay=1" width="600" height="300" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe><br /><br />Another good handful of of problems climbed by Mike Adams. In particular some very good highball aretes. The New venue of the Smuggler's Terrace is featured, with it's soon-to-be-classic arete, now with a sit start.Franco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-40485840657800101512012-01-31T01:31:00.000-08:002012-01-31T01:37:12.069-08:00New Font 8a+ At Cloughton Wyke<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/35922441?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&autoplay=1" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen="" width="600" frameborder="0" height="300"></iframe><br /><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">Mike Adams has recently made the first ascent of another strong line down on the coast.<br /><br />It took him three sessions over about 6 months to finally get it- thanking a rare wind for superior conditions this time round.<br /><br />The sit start still waits, but is perhaps not of the same quality as the stand.<br /><br />Another Adams classic.</div>Franco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-60448208063415890222012-01-22T17:24:00.000-08:002012-01-22T17:28:14.092-08:00The Smuggler's Esplanade/Jurrasic Park Bouldering VideoThe Hull team have been developing the bouldering underneath one of the last undeveloped crags in the moors'. The bouldering looks like it is also pretty good! Now someone just needs to decide what the place is actually going to be called. Parts of both names are already in use elsewhere in the moors, so perhaps a new name needs thinking of to avoid confusion.<br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/35459911?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&autoplay=1" width="600" height="400" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe>Franco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-81771505291356513472012-01-17T08:54:00.000-08:002012-01-17T09:12:39.533-08:00Jordan Buys Climbs Requiem (font 8a) and Comments On QualityStrong man Jordan Buys doesn't seem to have been put off climbing by his recent fall at Burbage (trying to flash the Promise (E8 7a)) and has been up at the relatively newly-discovered crag of Stoupe Brow.<br /><br />Rumour has it that it was a bit damp, which was the reason he chose to boulder rather than trad climb- with the line of Requiem (font 8a) being the obvious choice at 'the stoupe'. In the video we see him on the steepest side of 'Barry the Boulder', gracefully ascending Tom Newman's 2009 line. We also see a comment from Jordan confirming the quality, "I cant believe climbs like this exist and so little is heard about them. A king line."<br /><br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/34862987?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="400" width="600"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/34862987">Jordan Buys sends Requiem For A Dream, 8A, Stoupe Brow, Yorkshire.</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/wildcountry">Wild Country</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</p><br /><br />This comes only weeks after Mike Adams making the second ascent. (He agreed that it was a great problem too.)<br /><br />Certainly excellent news for the Moors- with its unparalleled potential and quality finally being realised by non-locals. Perhaps this is a new era in moors climbing, or at least a revived era, from the times when climbers from elsewhere would come and try our hardest routes and problems and report their beauty. Let's hope Jordan also gets on the routes before to long!Franco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-19891772065786877582012-01-11T12:56:00.001-08:002012-02-25T09:54:18.364-08:00A New Crag In The North York Moors<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB1CpKSHcKqob6mF-GSA3reNDJbdhMlc62BXzLlgt2dC5NwGeeav9HlaZtoZOf3T9VEH5OeTcfxPURfWvU5ag1d4QzqbFtnWSz5JLswKRR4_ZnSRQHqemYwG-Rlb-MGAzao6r91kiu60A/s1600/contraband.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB1CpKSHcKqob6mF-GSA3reNDJbdhMlc62BXzLlgt2dC5NwGeeav9HlaZtoZOf3T9VEH5OeTcfxPURfWvU5ag1d4QzqbFtnWSz5JLswKRR4_ZnSRQHqemYwG-Rlb-MGAzao6r91kiu60A/s320/contraband.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5696483607461191394" border="0" /></a><br />There's been a bit of a shortage of action in the North York Moors over winter, with the normal protagonists either elsewhere or working lots.<br /><br />I got down to a strange hidden coastal venue with Dooge Warburton. It was incredibly windy, so we had to abandon the day's plans and checked out an area that a few people have been wondering about for a while.<br /><br />It all looked very enormous and probably loose, but in the end it turned out to be sound rock and a bit smaller than it looked (around 15 metres).<br /><br />There's loads still to do here, which is why the exact location is still deliberately being kept a secret. Unlike the recent discoveries in the moors, this one has got a high proportion of mid to low grade routes, which is another cause for secrecy.<br /><br />There's lots of bouldering too, with a boulder start to an enormous arete being a classic in the region of the low font 7s.<br /><br />Lee and James Renardson returned to develop another 20 or so problems a few weeks later.<br /><br />Keep an eye out for more details over summer. It will be a major moors crag when completed, all be it a bit far flung from Scarborough or where ever!Franco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-23283911342257523712011-11-07T14:31:00.000-08:002011-11-08T02:01:10.074-08:00Mike Adams Hits Stoupe Brow- New Font 7c+ and Font 8a 2nd Ascent<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/31702014?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="600" height="450" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen allowFullScreen></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/31702014">Stoupe Brow (Ravensdale)</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user7044532">Raw Edge Days</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p><br /><br />Mr Adams has been out again, with an almost predictably impressive ticklist. He repeated Tom Newman's Font 8a, which is a future classic rising up the lip of the steepest side of Barry.<br /><br />Tom's Origonal reporting of Requiem:<br /><br />'Finally today I went back to the boulders to finish off the obvious problem of the crag. Imagine 15 moves on a 50 degree overhung prow and that is exactly what you have got. I have had a couple of sessions on this and originally thought it would be like 8b+ from the sit, but my friend steve d was able to find an easier sequence. Today I climbed the problem from sit and called it 'Requiem For A Dream' simple because i like the name, the film is awesome as is the problem, I think it will way in at about 8a, but who knows.'<br /><br />Mike also added a sit to the obvious Scoupe feature at the other side of the boulder, which went at Font 7c+. <br /><br />The video also shows some of the existing classics at the crag. Top notch Mike!<br /><br />Mike's sponsored by Tenya and MoonFranco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-48701536042516116512011-11-05T07:07:00.002-07:002011-11-08T02:44:53.770-08:00Mike Adams- Moors Convert And Bouldering Developer<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/30932979?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&" width="700" height="400" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><div>In a close-knit community like the Moors is, it's always nice to have new people visiting the area, but even more so when they come back time and time again. It's funny how powerful the moors' call is and its latest victim seems to be Sheffield strong-man Mike Adams.<div><br /></div><div>Mike is better known for his new problems and hard repeats all around the UK, but lately has found inner peace in the beautiful, isolated valleys of the North York Moors. Whilst he's mainly been getting used to the area and having a bit of an explore, he has quickly amassed a large list of new problem in the 7s and even some ascents of some font 8as. It seems further development of even harder problems is highly likely. </div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Mike comments on moors bouldering <span class="Apple-style-span" >on his <span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); ">vimeo<span class="Apple-style-span" style="background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); "></span> page:</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span"> <span class="Apple-style-span">"<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(62, 62, 62); line-height: 14px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); ">The Nothern England guide book by Steve Crow will help you find some of the areas but the bouldering is generally not documented. The best source of information is to check the Betaguides site for some topos or search the Betaguides Blog by Lee Robinson for as much info as possible. Some of the areas are still a bit hush hush as locals who have put a lot of effort into development still have good projects they still want to try. Which I think is only fair considering there efforts. I feel lucky to be let into their playground!"</span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(62, 62, 62); line-height: 14px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); "><br /></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(62, 62, 62); line-height: 14px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); "><br /></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 14px;">His vimeo page can be found here: </span></span><a href="http://vimeo.com/user7044532">http://vimeo.com/user7044532</a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 14px; ">and his moon blog here: </span></span><a href="http://www.moonclimbing.com/MOONBLOG/Mike%20Adams%20-%20Exploring%20the%20North%20Yorkshire%20Sandstone%20(Part%201)-n-1086.html">http://www.moonclimbing.com/MOONBLOG/Mike%20Adams%20-%20Exploring%20the%20North%20Yorkshire%20Sandstone%20(Part%201)-n-1086.html</a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(62, 62, 62); line-height: 14px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); "><br /></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(62, 62, 62); line-height: 14px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); ">Mike is sponsored by 'Tenya' and 'Moon'. </span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(62, 62, 62); line-height: 14px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); "><br /></span></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 14px;"><br /></span></span></div></div>Franco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-80515269296836437422011-11-01T15:17:00.000-07:002011-11-18T06:15:41.862-08:00Graded List Of Moors Extremes (With Some Beta)<div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><i>As always these lists are rather subjective. Added to this, I have not discussed this list with many people and so it is a fair way from a consensus. nevertheless, there is some useful information for anyone considering onsighting any of these lines and they are roughly in order of difficulty. Comments would be useful in sorting out a consensus in the order- or indeed further route information.</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span><b><i><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span><b><i><br /></i></b></span></span></div><u>H8</u></i></b><br /><br /><b>The Hypocrisy of Moose</b></span>- 6c- Easy low moves. OK gear. Harder knacky moves high up. Gear probably wouldn't stop you hitting the floor and might rip anyway.</span><div><i>Franco Cookson</i></div><div><br /><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i>(Nick Dixon Collection)</i></span></div></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ZskVWycoGsquWNG0xx-8tDRWNf_H-klC7I73g8rzk52E2by2bj6ld8M04-Jsyg_PHSfj3uZEeOsx5e-dHy-zrQKKW1wpSzVHcnbFgKeAyoyQ2JX8nwn-npLSUkzQ0iTR3VPpp0TPyY4/s320/Nick-Dixon-solo-scut-de-scun-ai.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5669981054137200738" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); text-decoration: underline; float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 224px; height: 320px; " /></div><div><br /></div><b>(P) Scut De Scun Ai</b>- 6c- A bold solo with very poor feet and the last few moves being ver</span>y insecure. It has not been led since it lost holds. Would be E8. Originally given E6, but was probably E7.</div><div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i>FA Nick Dixon</i></span></div><div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /><b><i><u>E7</u></i></b><br /><b><br />Esmerelda</b> - 6c- Danger</span><span class="Apple-style-span">ous mono-pulling with poor feet untill the gear. Then reportedly very hard, thin mono-pulling above. Good cam before the crux, but not ultra s</span>afe. Likely to be at the very upper limits of the grade.</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i>Richard Waterton</i></span></div><div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoCKjYXCpYkbEBYl6aEaOPJ1wCf4BdCwPaBWY3dJXdTYYMHekfx9-a4HYcMJ5x4aVc8fgyGtdORSu39sO_w1ALCR_CQVU1jwVLOJnkck4m75Gj7UKfafFPIpWbEPKuoiEF1oF-dPhaTxg/s320/DSCF3806.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5669980232962943058" style="float: right; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 241px; height: 320px; " /></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><b><br /></b></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><b><br /></b></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>Waves of Inspiration -</b> 6c/7a- Wild moves clos</span>e <span class="Apple-style-span">to the </span><span class="Apple-style-span">gear (but also close to the </span>ground), then a thin and very dangerous top out. Effectively an E7 6b with some very weird and morpo moves low down. The short and the unbalanced will find it hard.</div></div><div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i>Franco Cookson</i></span></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i><br /></i></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>Die By The Sword- </b>6c - A couple of hard moves above a bad fall, protected by low runners. One of those routes where the moves feel too hard and dangerous to be H7, but the bouldery nature of the route lets it get away with it.</span></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i>Franco Cookson</i></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><div><b>Howl Psyche </b>- 6b- A solo above a terrible and enormous fall. Pumpy and blind to figure out, with a craft heel on the crux.</div><i>Dave Warburton</i></div></span></div><div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><div></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>Fresh Arete </b>- 6b- Short, committing and sequencey. Very dangerous. I reckon this is unonsightable and that isn't a challenge!</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i>Dave Warburton (This is the hardest route to have been repeated- by Ramsden)</i></span></div><div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3kPvhbUM8TcXI2XcG5Qvi_uEbEg5fO49CluCpUaJLpgoX8JcEi3FWYxlY4duYvVE4ondS1KRUDgLu4RBRlky3cB_G9LcJIMA89vtqGCZAiOkJCmwsunoAVG086PejzCS4QVeeydke4YY/s320/DSCF3738.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5669983082305077298" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /><div><b>Original Sin </b>- 6c- Not much known about this. Hard low down (6c), then perhaps E6/7 6a according to Luke.</div></div><div><i>Richard Warterton.</i></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><div><u><br /></u></div></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>Magic in the air </b>- 6b-A very wild and committing solo, with a couple of brittle holds up top. Hasn't been repeated. Perhaps the most 'onsightable' of the Moors E7s after collateral, but pretty disastrous if you get it wrong.</span></div><div><i>Monty</i></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /><b>A Different Kind Of Blue</b>- 6c- A pretty ground-breaking route in terms of difficulty, climbing the much-tried Ravenscar arete, albeit by a meadery line. A great challenge though whch is safe thanks to quite convoluted gear. Hard, sustained. Might b</span>e nice to do it without the Stratagem gear at E8ish.</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i>Steve Ramsden (repeated Waterton and Reeve (Reeve ground up with beta))</i></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i>(Steve Ramsden Collection)</i></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><u><br /></u></span></div><div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQlY0U3Eh8QdBkrs8VccOUGffDwwYJLEKMYsvXlpydlsOd3hLxC208UrmQeEdKFlwq76yMEN0RivJVAG6EqB4OP0qgsGZjjSrV_UNn4eUBlbOaOjl2q4BDcQE4GLiOXSBY6TrKG7maYA4/s320/colat.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5669982486233419186" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 306px; height: 320px; " /></div><b></b><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>Stoupe Scoop </b>- 6b- sustained climbing on 'flattys' and 'dishes' in a</span>n increasingly dangerous situation. Very hard to figure out whether you'd hit the floor or not and what grade it really is- as there isn't really a crux. Very sport-climby in style. From the good crimp you'd definitively deck.</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i>Dave Warburton</i><div><div><br /></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><u><br /></u></span></div><div><b>Monty’s variant</b>- 6c- nothing know about this, but it's apparently E7 6c.</div></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /><div><b>Collateral- </b>6c- A nasty, but non-death fall with bouldery, but flashable climbing through a roof and then a scary slopey finish. Would be a hard onsight.</div><div><div><i>Steve Ramsden</i></div></div><b><i><u><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><b><i><u><br /></u></i></b></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><b><i><u><br /></u></i></b></span></div>E6</u></i></b><br /><b></b><div><br /></div><b>Battle for Tripoli-</b> 6a- Horrifying Scoop, which you can very easily get very wrong, with dire consequences.</span></div><div><i>Franco Cookson</i></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><u><br /></u></span></div><b>(P) Cardiac Arrest-</b> 6b- Hasn't been done without side runners, but even with them it's committing, tricky and dangerous.</span></div><div><div><i>Kelvin Neal (apparently onsight!)</i></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>Chi Ching-</b> 6c- Protectable with mats as a highball. Difficult.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i>Monty (repeated by at least Ramsden and Reeve)</i><br /><b><br /></b></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>Pippi Longstocking- </b>6c- very hard moves and then pretty damn bold and committing. An onsight of this would be VERY impressive.<div><div><i>Ed Brown (repeated Ramsden 2010- E6 6c***)</i></div></div><br /><b>Three screaming popes </b>-6b- suspect wires protect an ok crux sequence, if you know how to do it. Copying the fa's style of ascent (ground up with 'repeated falls') is ill-advised.<br /><i>Monty et al. (repeated Ramsden)</i><br /><br /><b>Desperate Den- </b>6b/c- difficult highball moves to the break of Stargazer on thin pockets. Reach an asset. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i>Marr (repeated onsight Cookson)</i></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><br /><b>Vampiric Obsession- </b>6b- tricky to onsight and ankle-breaking. Might just feel E5 though, especially with beta and pads.<div><i>Franco Cookson (no inspection) (repeated Warburton and Harvey)</i></div></span></div><div><div><br /></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><div><div><b><br /></b></div></div></span></div><b><i><u>E5</u></i><br /></b><div><div><br /></div></div><b>Res Publica-</b> 6b/c- Hard ultra safe moves, then</span></div><div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik5_N0mimtarY3FzUJEA4RENedPnpj7GbzwfkXRWU42no5hLdrTH1W5x1AloZsAbErmBoMug90sw8dvxjlpPjfcg3eHfKFOF7-OWaDEGH3ntjzEgrtQIPzgEoofQYRyh2VRORqlbwUhSg/s320/Res+Publica+-+Copy.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5669983588619697266" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); text-decoration: underline; float: right; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"> a nasty swing is faced on the last tricky move. Double gastons </span>and bad sideways feet unlock the crux.</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i>Franco Cookson</i></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i><br /></i><b>Otter wilderness route</b>- 6b- tricky solo leads to a tricam. Hard moves from here lead to a<br />very scary finish. Great place to climb.<div><div><br /></div></div><i>Franco Cookson (repeated Warburton)</i></span></div><div><div><br /></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i><br /></i><b>Fire Dance-</b> 6a- Very committing and insecure moves, with a large potential deckage. Bolts need stripping.<div><div><div><i>Franco Cookson</i></div></div></div></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i><br /></i><b>Farndale Fayer-</b> 6b-Sequency, reachy and powerful.</span></div><div><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLwAerAgf-mxEHrs46lHYLfCLiVfpkPKinJkj2DSBPD6m-Grb2h3huLlwwGw5fxeECGLbreIio1J6cfRAqwFxfs535tTx0T22LTHPaedAlE9cclQz9Z5DQ2D7oyMnvN2C-nQtiVWOJQVs/s320/Onsight+FA+The+Arete-+Ravensdale+Stoupe+Brow.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5669984051116168738" style="float: right; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"> There's one very good small cam, but the top is pumpy to hang around on, dangerous and perhaps not that obvious.<br /><i>Steve Crowe (repeated Warburton and Cookson)</i></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i><br /></i><b>Honey Arete-</b> 6b- </span>highball crux and then a smeary and scary finish. Top route.</div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i>Adam Van Lopic (repeated Ramsden, Warburton and onsighted by Cookson)</i></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i><br /></i><b>Shorter’s Wall- </b>6b- nothing known about this.<br /><i>Steve Findlay</i><div><i><br /></i></div><b>Stratagem</b>- 6b- sustained bouldery climbing with very good gear. Remarkably this has never been onsighted.<br /><i>Redhead and Shorter (many repeats)</i></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i><br /></i><b>Mane Vision</b>- 6c- well protected and extremely fingery climbing.<br /><i>Warburton, Cookson and Marks</i></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i><br /></i><b>Fat Bastard’s - </b>6a- bold steady climbing on slightly dusty holds.<br /><i>Findlay and Shorter (many repeats)</i><b><br /></b><div><div><div><br /></div></div></div><b><div><b>Whitestone Traverse- </b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal; ">6a/b- epic choss girdle.</span></div></b><div><div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsCnKL51ZHyAevTTrODMZwrOJqTx6B6_wzgbKIOC4-a82rLYg3RwuBR4D1A78p_UKogFj_51J5CkImryEQfnE-bdAqVVCJXmW0peFS6lQAUi2e_Fcihl4nvb4UN1zVJC_-wJHHOx5t6d8/s320/FFA+Whitestone+Traverse+-+Copy.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5669984384187909714" style="float: right; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 10px; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px; " /><i>Hunt and Cookson</i></span></div></div></div></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i><br /></i><b>Pasketti Alpinist-</b> 6a- a long face-climb with only one 'ok' cam. No one's ever fallen on to it, which is probably for the best. If it holds it's E4.<br /><i>Cookson, Warburton and Dale</i></span></div><div><div><br /></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>Polish Diplomat- </b>6b- a couple of thin moves above bad gear.<br /><i>Warburton, Cookson and Marks </i><br /><br /><b>Heel of Approval -</b> 6b- A very committing heel throw above an atrocious landing. Easier finish.<br /><i>Warburton (a typical Warburton route- totally pointless </i></span><i>and suicidally dangerous) </i></div><div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLGmZ3PYf2zLhUW2WqgECsAPhFJXvDr3m712MAtbm50NtgNijo1QUMr6UF7sR8_l3fKgxrVcsTXOrCfeNuVeukAqfQIX9yvEiUI8CvpIm_TgLM6UxnxdXUylEMq3PqfpJyvYUgAU0HHzk/s320/DSCF2586.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5669984734572950274" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px; " /><br /><b>Teeside Twitcher </b>- 6b- powerful sustained climbing on sandy rock. Adequately protected </span>with insitu pegs and nuts.</div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i>Hunt and Cookson (hunt shows his ability to climb ground up without any concern for safety)</i></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i><br /></i><b>Night Watch indirect</b>- 6a-depends on which line you take. Likely soft though. Strange line.<br /><i>Downe</i></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i><br /></i><b>Fresh Arete with side runners</b>- 6b- As for fresh arete, although pretty safe.<br /><i>Steve Ramsden (repeated Warburton)</i><br /><br /><b>Magic with side runners- 6b-</b> very safe, but still sees very few (any?) onsights.<br /><i>Dixon (many repeats)</i><br /><br /><b><br /></b></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><b>Grand master Flash- 6b-</b> Apparently this is soft E5, but probably only if you are a boulderer and have a fair few pads.<br /><i>Dave Paul (many repeats)</i><br /><br /><b>Moonflower-</b> 6a- One directional R.P at half height, safe with boulder mats.</span></div></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i>Dave Paul- variations Dixon. Direct rib start variation is 6b. Straight up the wall is 6c. Left hand finish is 6b. (many repeats)</i></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i><br /></i></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i><br /></i></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><i>May the spirit of the moors go with you always.</i></span></div>Franco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-49075766473239121522011-10-30T09:04:00.000-07:002011-10-30T09:06:53.901-07:00Comic Video: 'If you're not flying, you're not trying' FA<div><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/31052273?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="600" height="315" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""></iframe></div><div><br /></div><div>In this video Jake Hampshire and crew attempt to make the first ascent of a chossy wall hidden in some woods somewhere.... </div>Franco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-60921922926254809912011-10-28T05:03:00.000-07:002011-10-30T08:51:58.911-07:00New Routes Put Up This Summer<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZSCQj9Jgf5T3Tg0L3UeEZcCLtrx7Kt83Hw-JjJ18GNbo22kuOHZaGL7VZqrKEPT66Y8nzJ_ixFBLA3TiwH5p1x8ChMRyhA55a1bx_lkF0D2_6sQqUjc_IkTSkUQGydBxJssiyiOSGfLI/s1600/DSCF3738.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZSCQj9Jgf5T3Tg0L3UeEZcCLtrx7Kt83Hw-JjJ18GNbo22kuOHZaGL7VZqrKEPT66Y8nzJ_ixFBLA3TiwH5p1x8ChMRyhA55a1bx_lkF0D2_6sQqUjc_IkTSkUQGydBxJssiyiOSGfLI/s320/DSCF3738.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5668513273610073282" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Dave Warburton on the awesome (in the literal sense of the word) 'White Scoop'</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div>A lot of stuff has happened in the Moors this year already, with Danby Crag, Round Crag and Stoupe Brow have been at the forefront of development. Check out Dave Warb's and my blogs if you're interesting in repeating some of it.<div><br /></div><div><a href="http://davidwarburton-climbing.blogspot.com/">http://davidwarburton-climbing.blogspot.com/</a><br /><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://francocookson-climbing.blogspot.com/">http://francocookson-climbing.blogspot.com/</a></div><div><br /></div></div><div>There's an increasing interest in the moors now, with a lot of stuff clean that hasn't been for a long time and a good scene developing, with a few new teams from Middlesbrough and Pickering leading the charge. </div><div><br /></div><div>The next few years are going to be exciting.</div>Franco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-30039839677341789102011-10-28T04:58:00.001-07:002011-10-28T05:03:07.151-07:00New Bouldering Areas- Duck Boulders and Kay Nest<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPrKq7Gp5ejbJaH6UZFd_MrBnXTmMjkOMAIkRs-iEsHV6-Y3oQdfubxKu1m97zAePA5FE5NY483nGTOMOV0urZUN6XHN5Cu1NesUFHPY9ktGDqZVPSTrG4lIcrN38MfO8_OTdCyhS8dlI/s1600/ducks.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPrKq7Gp5ejbJaH6UZFd_MrBnXTmMjkOMAIkRs-iEsHV6-Y3oQdfubxKu1m97zAePA5FE5NY483nGTOMOV0urZUN6XHN5Cu1NesUFHPY9ktGDqZVPSTrG4lIcrN38MfO8_OTdCyhS8dlI/s320/ducks.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5668512191294596274" /></a><i>Duck Boulders- Copyright Betaguides.com</i><div><i><br /></i><div>Lee Robinson and gang have been out again getting on the boulders. The Duck boulders have given a lot of quality and the latest Moors meet was held at 'Kay Nest', where a lot of new stuff went down. More info here:<div><a href="http://betaguides.blogspot.com/2011/10/spirit-of-moors-draws-everyone-back.html">http://betaguides.blogspot.com/2011/10/spirit-of-moors-draws-everyone-back.html</a></div><div><a href="http://betaguides.blogspot.com/2011/10/even-more-ducks.html">http://betaguides.blogspot.com/2011/10/even-more-ducks.html</a></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>I hear tales of another venue in the pipeline too... As good as 'font' the rumours go... Keep an eye out on the Betaguides blog and I'm sure you'll find out soon enough. </div></div></div>Franco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-32837094485814865232011-06-18T04:22:00.000-07:002011-06-18T13:31:13.840-07:00New Dimensions at Danby Crag<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuSLrt9vg5YPS9-ISFK9JS6y1ViPQpiEB9f9_igjQv2J619LAEz1TrhlrhIQnMKbEbL8ojCifVwlOfJIWxO410diJtPBMPEWbMCNddc8tEE5O0SlqAR-_TQ5_7fkH1Q6aIQv3iNr3d9UM/s1600/6b+Top+out.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 223px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuSLrt9vg5YPS9-ISFK9JS6y1ViPQpiEB9f9_igjQv2J619LAEz1TrhlrhIQnMKbEbL8ojCifVwlOfJIWxO410diJtPBMPEWbMCNddc8tEE5O0SlqAR-_TQ5_7fkH1Q6aIQv3iNr3d9UM/s320/6b+Top+out.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5619659624164071010" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><i>The Warm up..</i>.</div><div><br /></div><div>The woods below Danby crag have seen many-a-man disappear down seemingly bottomless pits, only to be devoured by spiders and ticks. The boundary between rotting moss-covered tree and humus is blurred and if the ground gives way one discovers that what one was stood on was in fact once standing tall into the clear moors' air. This comical journey soon gives into a genuine worry for one's life, with predators in them woods that are most likely unknown to science and I hope they will remain unknown to me. Only the trail of murdered rabbits and the sudden twitch of a distant branch hinting at their presence.</div><div><br />After this approach I actually found some rock! Some of it was actually quite good. It was odd as I had walked the length of the crag before, but seemed to have missed a lot of the potential here. I shunted a couple of things, one which will go pretty soon as an unprotected route that is not that difficult. The second Arete I found was wild, truly wild- In fact I'd say it's the hardest thing I've ever been on. It is plum vertical and looks like another Hypocrisy of Moose, but is an even better arete and basically without footholds or gear. I managed one move on it in over an hour, with some parts of the pure ten metre line mindbogglingly difficult- I can't even see how you could do it.<br /><br />It seems to start off with a very difficult highball problem which just seemed impossible and needs a good clean (I didn't even try this section as the rest was clean and needs figuring out anyway). Once you do this bit you have to set up for a large super-balancy arete dyno. I played with this move a lot and it is a really funky arete move; with shocking feet and contorted side-pulling. You are jumping for the first real hold which is an ok one pad crimp and it's super wild. Although I'm not climbing very well at the moment it seemed harder than any move I've ever done (English 7a?) and is one of the best moves I've ever attempted. Fingertips stroking the crimp, but the massive swing means it will be nails to hold. Fun though!<br /><br />Once the crimp is gained you mount it with relative ease. This is the move I managed and about as hard as the crux of the Hypocrisy of Moose (Coincidentally I shunted this again later and was pleased to see how steady it seems now, although still certain I graded it correctly at H7 6c). Once you are stood on the crimp you get some real holds- a small low edge and a ironstone thing on the arete. You are kind of comfortable in this position, but the holds face kind of the wrong way and moving off it is nails due to the total lack of feet.<br /><br />At this point you'd likely be in a death-fall situation and the next three moves to the top are outrageous- again with poor feet and only pinching aretes for hands.<br /><br />So all in all pretty exciting. I have recently fallen out of love with new routing, but this route is really exciting. It's so mindbendingly difficult for me at the moment and even with perfect gear slots it would be harder than things like the Moose. The idea of climbing multiple 7a moves after a start that could be even harder and without any gear is just mental, but perhaps this is what I need to get psyched for getting better.</div>Franco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-47512024539898047512011-06-03T16:33:00.000-07:002011-06-03T16:35:18.235-07:00Camp Hill<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSrhwZw8vz-AcREM8Z1N1qA9OAjlyo6jdG6lJHwlTZAsST9KrVPC2Fw8X-UcBsG0F9TpJB8nX1ng0urgxhtLeVuTAakfB9tzCvb348IrVejCWToZ5VIJNcnDIzSHHSpuOYgQ9bqbL8ywo/s1600/DSCF2961.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSrhwZw8vz-AcREM8Z1N1qA9OAjlyo6jdG6lJHwlTZAsST9KrVPC2Fw8X-UcBsG0F9TpJB8nX1ng0urgxhtLeVuTAakfB9tzCvb348IrVejCWToZ5VIJNcnDIzSHHSpuOYgQ9bqbL8ywo/s320/DSCF2961.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5614140933622839906" /></a><br />New traverse on the far right Buttress. Lots more to do!Franco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-27452532607910496102011-06-01T16:59:00.000-07:002011-06-02T04:22:47.010-07:00Turkey Nab MiniGuide- Free<a title="View Draft 8 on Scribd" href="http://www.scribd.com/doc/56854969/Draft-8" style="margin: 12px auto 6px auto; font-family: Helvetica,Arial,Sans-serif; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; font-size: 14px; line-height: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal; -x-system-font: none; display: block; text-decoration: underline;">Draft 8</a> <object id="doc_26772" name="doc_26772" height="600" width="100%" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" data="http://d1.scribdassets.com/ScribdViewer.swf" style="outline:none;" > <param name="movie" value="http://d1.scribdassets.com/ScribdViewer.swf"> <param name="wmode" value="opaque"> <param name="bgcolor" value="#ffffff"> <param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"> <param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"> <param name="FlashVars" value="document_id=56854969&access_key=key-1qsammk0d9ovsgkjcm51&page=1&viewMode=list"> <embed id="doc_26772" name="doc_26772" src="http://d1.scribdassets.com/ScribdViewer.swf?document_id=56854969&access_key=key-1qsammk0d9ovsgkjcm51&page=1&viewMode=list" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" height="600" width="100%" wmode="opaque" bgcolor="#ffffff"></embed> </object>Franco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-1101784273192559922011-06-01T13:45:00.001-07:002011-06-01T13:48:34.848-07:00Clemmitt's- Few New projects<img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 212px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCTeFRQvYsvCtiWTAP_5CMFgyVXYPz9Oh39_IxOCOc6XanXKZXh92iEWxfKPEOUN1jkE7lJBlo-xIWni7xJvCcyqkLYzl05PwC8-lm2mbQ3wGz1tmAnEXgOTpzxoi3KANFwnKrKkPgsa0/s320/Picture+20.png" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5613356016069731842" /><i><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; "><i><span class="Apple-style-span" ><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCTeFRQvYsvCtiWTAP_5CMFgyVXYPz9Oh39_IxOCOc6XanXKZXh92iEWxfKPEOUN1jkE7lJBlo-xIWni7xJvCcyqkLYzl05PwC8-lm2mbQ3wGz1tmAnEXgOTpzxoi3KANFwnKrKkPgsa0/s1600/Picture+20.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}">(Copyright Betaguides)</a></span></i></span></div></i><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; "><i><span class="Apple-style-span" ><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCTeFRQvYsvCtiWTAP_5CMFgyVXYPz9Oh39_IxOCOc6XanXKZXh92iEWxfKPEOUN1jkE7lJBlo-xIWni7xJvCcyqkLYzl05PwC8-lm2mbQ3wGz1tmAnEXgOTpzxoi3KANFwnKrKkPgsa0/s1600/Picture+20.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a></span></i></span><span class="Apple-style-span" ><i><br /></i></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP8He1L6waHwMj-AEBbozkoFBqghC4W_H2yIp8IpaoyjKn5D5GMnJI6JUtcYQ6jBAovBPNnywk7PMg88VAT4Io2dyZR-BlVDxq9puNlqBJfrKJtot-PBGABggJsbsBXrPSsADBEeTHlLs/s1600/DSCF2899+-+Copy.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP8He1L6waHwMj-AEBbozkoFBqghC4W_H2yIp8IpaoyjKn5D5GMnJI6JUtcYQ6jBAovBPNnywk7PMg88VAT4Io2dyZR-BlVDxq9puNlqBJfrKJtot-PBGABggJsbsBXrPSsADBEeTHlLs/s320/DSCF2899+-+Copy.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5613355698493816242" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSKM8Ea4gOl7ZYD-YcxU728xQ-geaPHV24kENOa7AY97E2u7sjbfQdNJj8VrAtkrPrg5G6_WX-Tzrz_BL8HL1gcI1anhA_z9U7yDDH1A4RNsjPgPmCNCr98q5DEqQ6QCwYgn4muPpezO8/s1600/DSCF2900+-+Copy.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSKM8Ea4gOl7ZYD-YcxU728xQ-geaPHV24kENOa7AY97E2u7sjbfQdNJj8VrAtkrPrg5G6_WX-Tzrz_BL8HL1gcI1anhA_z9U7yDDH1A4RNsjPgPmCNCr98q5DEqQ6QCwYgn4muPpezO8/s320/DSCF2900+-+Copy.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5613355487261502370" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVnXlPVcrt4h7S36wjfOI5af9yp15H5QBMlClzKhBYFcp8AsfOX7SDCzvgNqNmqtQPCj-fogOeNM5hp9RxLeuBNERgZ53glxDwtnn1PX542e3JPUXcEu0pJsoX5Cl1oRRTqEtIW1aX-Pg/s1600/DSCF2884+-+Copy.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVnXlPVcrt4h7S36wjfOI5af9yp15H5QBMlClzKhBYFcp8AsfOX7SDCzvgNqNmqtQPCj-fogOeNM5hp9RxLeuBNERgZ53glxDwtnn1PX542e3JPUXcEu0pJsoX5Cl1oRRTqEtIW1aX-Pg/s320/DSCF2884+-+Copy.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5613355297082906482" /></a><br /></div>Franco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-71926193896731948952011-05-27T08:14:00.001-07:002011-05-27T08:20:40.536-07:00Ingleby Far North<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMbjy0ndU-e9elF8DL45OZ_nTCUe_aGQ1ca_2NqvG19Co-52-Xtfx6eTHb6K8eC7D-fjdgMKX2FFwX_Si2dsP5bRUM_rBh3UwWFXdgsVotizv7bygTJsoTmb3oYtPyIH-K0BJB1EkaBts/s1600/DSCF2855.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMbjy0ndU-e9elF8DL45OZ_nTCUe_aGQ1ca_2NqvG19Co-52-Xtfx6eTHb6K8eC7D-fjdgMKX2FFwX_Si2dsP5bRUM_rBh3UwWFXdgsVotizv7bygTJsoTmb3oYtPyIH-K0BJB1EkaBts/s320/DSCF2855.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5611416081496524930" /></a>After being rained off on a soloing mission to Turkey Nab I found myself exploring the very north end of Ingleby. I've fancied a walk about this area before as there seems to be a lot of rock about and Lee discovered the Waylander boulder around these parts less than a year ago.<div><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBt_aZphGFzM4sg7XMIr6O8Ghy8yNOdp_lqVMnGY_hBEjHtqxeb0Sk4p0csH_hf9rYZKXdsXE1DPCe9w3_lysjKvr_TuOOZF5qo0nr8aIXkYJa1cAonz5DJ8U1JxUPAEG5ZwXDqrxJo1I/s1600/DSCF2857.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBt_aZphGFzM4sg7XMIr6O8Ghy8yNOdp_lqVMnGY_hBEjHtqxeb0Sk4p0csH_hf9rYZKXdsXE1DPCe9w3_lysjKvr_TuOOZF5qo0nr8aIXkYJa1cAonz5DJ8U1JxUPAEG5ZwXDqrxJo1I/s320/DSCF2857.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5611415980387596306" /></a><div>I had a good mooch about and didn't find that much, apart from one lone boulder with some interesting sit starts to do and a quarry with some lines that look OK- one to come back to in a bit...<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheRy8wPLG9xdGPB6lGjmwTJVmT-ArePZXwp6F4Oj-SV3B1i1cC76U31tk5naIXcsgJpaj2dEv5sJ_9740OVy8E9FyhJvQQ6ngsu-O9-aurofIPnSQjuDTj5KeZPuGZq9OvvbNDKbBbNLk/s1600/DSCF2856.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheRy8wPLG9xdGPB6lGjmwTJVmT-ArePZXwp6F4Oj-SV3B1i1cC76U31tk5naIXcsgJpaj2dEv5sJ_9740OVy8E9FyhJvQQ6ngsu-O9-aurofIPnSQjuDTj5KeZPuGZq9OvvbNDKbBbNLk/s320/DSCF2856.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5611415867768703762" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCLVllHFVdPTFq0jJlV_ojjVZoXEDojqyEA_9DJvknUHdnKWdq63J7iev2zjM7TFMYj8GWAr3jV9W-VkJhWU5thWNLRmjToK7HiN2c031BwGwEAAVlao5nZmX-qtD6voZ_H_94R7tcAvg/s1600/DSCF2866.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCLVllHFVdPTFq0jJlV_ojjVZoXEDojqyEA_9DJvknUHdnKWdq63J7iev2zjM7TFMYj8GWAr3jV9W-VkJhWU5thWNLRmjToK7HiN2c031BwGwEAAVlao5nZmX-qtD6voZ_H_94R7tcAvg/s320/DSCF2866.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5611415740811075186" /></a><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVnDHQhcEfby4XwZ4PGj5USW_sHVOZEPppnQ67dQMokiGVjYDSp4ksGjIr9mLNpuiWRqwZFq_jii2C_nsDcv3vtTVU159np6Ka5OcdgiKTe6L5MIMWsGNtj0W9CUgqXtJS0sB-3KP_-Ds/s1600/DSCF2859.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVnDHQhcEfby4XwZ4PGj5USW_sHVOZEPppnQ67dQMokiGVjYDSp4ksGjIr9mLNpuiWRqwZFq_jii2C_nsDcv3vtTVU159np6Ka5OcdgiKTe6L5MIMWsGNtj0W9CUgqXtJS0sB-3KP_-Ds/s320/DSCF2859.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5611415461346374722" /></a><br /><br /></div>Franco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-68167859576093585872011-05-03T01:36:00.000-07:002011-05-03T02:08:43.238-07:00Res Publica Ground Up FA (E6 6c*)<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrWu9zJ2yauhM1i1noqhp86Ktr9VzB3kDLES3bqkuDHKrvzjOWvIdzRirjewRDCV7Xf6Uro-5IoHW77VSHHTxDd0UcWH2HzFsEOWLIC1y6ODHCnSaNd_uiNU8Xshy30i5GCOtJfgjcMAQ/s1600/spain+2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrWu9zJ2yauhM1i1noqhp86Ktr9VzB3kDLES3bqkuDHKrvzjOWvIdzRirjewRDCV7Xf6Uro-5IoHW77VSHHTxDd0UcWH2HzFsEOWLIC1y6ODHCnSaNd_uiNU8Xshy30i5GCOtJfgjcMAQ/s320/spain+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5602411216461708722" border="0" /></a>I had a great time sport climbing in spain. There was a little rain and cloud, but we made up for the bad days with very active dry days. I think in the end I climbed about 750 metres of F7a or harder, with about 30 routes from 5+ to F7c. I nearly onsighted what would have been my first 7c, but got wrong footed after the crux and fell off. I was annoyed, but didn't get too upset about it. More importantly I got a lot of mileage in, getting ready for the trad season.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpx4UrPwLmL0Ahyphenhyphenp3a4qXz_9CAxe0Dd1BM1Kp36hp5f2UcYavJHl0GxGuodYiA8GrIE_t9Aqe6iFbmvF0hzO2ZtTFn2Xfk26hThQEnF556fQ6VqBR32XRDLrfneVFVZxZiZ8o0oibJQSw/s1600/spain.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 225px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpx4UrPwLmL0Ahyphenhyphenp3a4qXz_9CAxe0Dd1BM1Kp36hp5f2UcYavJHl0GxGuodYiA8GrIE_t9Aqe6iFbmvF0hzO2ZtTFn2Xfk26hThQEnF556fQ6VqBR32XRDLrfneVFVZxZiZ8o0oibJQSw/s320/spain.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5602410768800071250" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpx4UrPwLmL0Ahyphenhyphenp3a4qXz_9CAxe0Dd1BM1Kp36hp5f2UcYavJHl0GxGuodYiA8GrIE_t9Aqe6iFbmvF0hzO2ZtTFn2Xfk26hThQEnF556fQ6VqBR32XRDLrfneVFVZxZiZ8o0oibJQSw/s1600/spain.jpg"></a>Anyway, I have three weeks of intensive Uni work coming up, so yesterday I got out with my trusty companion, Dooge. We were toying with the idea of Limestone, but in the end opted for a day hit to Beacon Scar, back up near osmotherly.<br /><br />It was a good day out, with us both getting the classic E2 'Tremor' done, along with the classic E5 'A Last Fling'. We also added a couple of minor new routes- an eliminate VS slab and a strange, slightly sandy, exposed E1/2.<br /><br />After all this we had about an hour or two left before we had to leave. We looked at the guide and saw that there was an old Mike Readshaw Aid traverse that hadn't been freed going from left to right across the Boss. We saw that the pendulum section of this traverse could make quite a good free route if done in reverse from Nail File.<br /><br />We got to work ground up:<br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/23156472?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="400" frameborder="0" height="225"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/23156472">Res Publica - Beacon Scar</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user3774974">Dave Warburton</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</p>It took a few goes, but it went! It's obviously not a great line, but it will be good for future moors activists to get on a safe testpiece. We've always wanted stuff like this to cut our teeth on and I hope the next swaith of activists enjoy it.<br /><br />It seems necessary to have some grade talk for new routes, so here we go... We did it ground up, so may have a hard sequence, but it was English 6c most likely. Safe as houses. The last ankle twisting bit was about 6b. Maybe that's E6? I don't know, I'm not very good with grading safe routes and I'm not very good at this powerful bouldery style. Would be very difficult for the short though, so maybe E6 6c, easier for the tall?<br /><br />I thought it was a three star classic, with ace moves on a sunny day. Future repeaters will most likely find it interesting and short lived in difficulties- so a lone star me thinks.Franco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-45110550666656623392011-04-14T16:11:00.000-07:002011-05-07T00:53:37.628-07:00Clemmitt's Boulders- Video<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/22415981?byline=0&portrait=0" width="398" height="299" frameborder="0"></iframe><p>6 new problems at Clemmitt's Boulders.</p>Franco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6287420114780517825.post-34059573119418988752011-04-07T00:54:00.000-07:002011-05-07T01:03:41.914-07:00Snotterdale Arete- Harder Than Previously Thought<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixncCdWHi28vtaT6bWu3ZWkU-QzutJvVC1YmSl_lGc_6D4FPAd2Gl8PyYe2UpgRg4R9Ggm0Ez2TMC6L-i22KGttPlc1Pbn-E7tBV5spY9rPc8-9uokkj9fwtrobChl41IYx0CrJE_O_QM/s1600/DSCN1713.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixncCdWHi28vtaT6bWu3ZWkU-QzutJvVC1YmSl_lGc_6D4FPAd2Gl8PyYe2UpgRg4R9Ggm0Ez2TMC6L-i22KGttPlc1Pbn-E7tBV5spY9rPc8-9uokkj9fwtrobChl41IYx0CrJE_O_QM/s320/DSCN1713.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5603881611399444898" /></a><br />I'd always penciled the Snotterdale arete down as a couple of bold moves above a bit of a bad landing- E6 6b kind of territory.<div><br /></div><div>Steve and I have both been on it recently and we found it quite different to the secure, but bold route it looked like a while back.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px; ">It's a great line in a nice esoteric venue, with actually a very slappy and sustained sequence. It is bold, very bold. With ten pads you might be able to jump off pre-crux, but you couldn't actually fall off. The climbing is also quite slopey and body tensiony, which is everything I'm bad at, with a sustained bouldery sequence of about F7b+ in a short distance meaning it's pretty explosive.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 18px; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 18px;">We also found some dirty crimps on the crux, which when cleaned mean that the route is quite escapable, which is a real shame. </span></span></div>Franco Cooksonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04621063041357693473noreply@blogger.com0